Eyebrow 101: Everything you need to know!!!
If your brows are really thin, you can fill them to look slightly thicker, but don’t go overboard as the results will look unnatural.
Equipment for eyebrows
Slanted eyebrow brush- this brush has a slanted edge, which enables an even application across the brow. It should be held so that the longer end is closer to the eye and it follows the shorter end. The brush is thin and is made of firm fibers. It should be used with eyebrow powder.
Eyebrow powder- This powder is matte and comes in a range of colors to match all hair colors. It is used to fill and/or reshape the eyebrows.
Eyebrow wand- This is the same shape as a mascara wand. It can be used to brush through the eyebrows to groom them.
Tweezers- To pluck eyebrows into shape and groom stray hairs, invest in a good quality pair of tweezers with slanted ends that sit together squarely when closed. Poor quality tweezers will make plucking very painful. Grab the hairs as close to the root as possible, first close the tweezers on the hair and gently pull to check you haven’t caught any skin, and then pull them away firmly and quickly in the direction of growth.
- First comb through your eyebrows to remove any powder or foundation and to get all the hairs lying in the same direction.
- To locate where the brow should start, hold an orange stick, or a makeup brush (something straight and thin), vertically against the face. The stick should connect the side of the bridge of the nose, the inner corner of the eye, and the starting point for the eyebrow. The side of the bridge of the nose is a better marker than the edge of the nostril as nose shapes vary.
- To locate the correct place for the arch of the eyebrow, look straight ahead and join the bottom of the bridge of the nose with the outer edge of the pupil. The place where the stick crosses the brow gives you the ideal place for the arch. To locate the finish point for the eyebrow, join the bottom of the bridge of the nose with the outer corner of the eye- where the stick hits the brow bone is where the eyebrow should end.
- Having located and marked these places, fill the brow with pencil in a shade similar to the color of the natural eyebrow hairs.
Eyebrow Shapes and Solutions
We have hair above our eyes to keep moisture out of our eyes. The natural arch channels water and sweat around the side of the eyes. Styling eyebrows dates back to the Egyptians, and through the ages various styles and shapes have been in fashion. Today the fashion is for more naturally groomed eyebrows, but in the 1950s it was fashionable to have very heavy, thick brows. When styling eyebrows, it is easy to get it wrong.
Consult an eyebrow professional initially for help in determining your best eyebrow shape. It’s well worth the time and money. Once you’ve had the initial shaping done professionally, you can maintain it easily at home. The shape follows the line of the eye and isn’t over plucked. The arch is in the right place and it is soft and subtle.
An over plucked eyebrow is very unflattering, making the nose look larger and the eyes seem too far apart. It is also incredibly aging. You can make this mistake when you are trying to create more and more of an arch but aren’t sure where it should be. Fill in what is left with a soft color and try to grow all the hairs back before you shape them again.
A straight brow is when the arch of the eyebrow never existed or has disappeared from too much tweezing. It is the hardest eyebrow to fix and usually can’t be done with pencil or powder. Let the hairs grow back and try to create more of an arched shape.
The arch is in the wrong place, usually too far out. This can happen when the angle of hair growth changes sharply at the arch. This shape can make the eyelid look puffy or the eyes look crossed! Fill in the gap under the eyebrow and tweeze a few more hairs so the arch moves inward.
Tadpole or Comma
This eyebrow is over plucked and starts with a small ball at the inner corner. It is easy to make this mistake if the hair at the inner corner of the brow grows upward while the rest of the hairs grow outward. To smooth the sharp angle, fill in the gap, filling out the brow and softening the angle.
- When done correctly, brow powder looks more natural than pencil.
- Work with the natural shape of your brows as much as possible. Let the shape guide you when grooming and shaping.
- To check the desired shape before you remove any hairs, color the ones you are going to remove with a white pencil or concealer.
- Thin eyebrows tend to make your face look instantly older. Don’t over do it!