All About the Eyes!!!
Your eyes are what give expression to your face. They reveal your thoughts, emotions, desires, and fears- even when you don’t want them to. And they’ll do this no matter what shape they are, no matter what makeup you use. So why worry about correcting their shape? Because, in addition to being your most expressive feature, your eyes give balance to your face. Their very set and shape influences the relationship among all other facial features. Where you place your blush is always in proportion to your eyes; how you balance your nose is always in direct relationship with your eyes. Even the width of your mouth should correspond to the set of your eyes. All these are reasons to give your eyes the attention they deserve.
Start by drawing a line of color just under the lower lashes. Don’t stroke from side to side on the shadow pan. Instead, hold the sponge-tip applicator straight up and down, and get the color just at the tip. Take it from lighter to darker at the outside corner, feathering the color out. Then smudge the entire line to give it subtlety.
To shade the lid area, deposit the color at the outside corner and press down. This keeps the color particles from falling below the eye. Then blend color up and out over the lid going from dark to light.
Next, use a highlighting shadow to contour the curve of the eye. Add a lighter shade, depositing all color on the inside corner of your eye. Bring this highlighting up and out, overlapping the darker edge of your first shadow. Never leave a rainbow effect, with one color just meeting the edge of another; just overlap the edges for a softer effect.
- ~ Almond Shaped Eyes~ Almond eyes are the ideal shape, adapting to all kinds of fashion. Accentuate the graceful curves by shadowing the inner and outermost part of the lids, extending up and slightly. Place a bit of lighter highlight color just in the center of the lid and under the brow arch. Add color to both upper and lower lashes, extending it the full length of the eye.
- ~Droopy Eyes~ Start with eyeliner close to the lash line on the inside corner of the eye. Take it three quarters of the way across the lash line, then sweep it up beyond the natural eye corner. Use shadow in the crease, following the curve of the eyeliner. Sweep upward. Extend beyond the outside eye corner. Apply mascara only to those lashes that are before this line; leave lashes that fall after the extended line alone. With an eye pencil, parallel the eyeliner just underneath the lower lashes. Sweep it up at the outside corner at a similar slant. Do not let the two lines meet. Use mascara all the way across the lower lashes.
- ~ Deep Set Eyes~ Create the illusion of a higher natural eye crease by using a dark shadow above the crease line. Apply a lighter shadow in the crease and continue below it. Never put a dark color in the crease. Add a highlight color just above the dark shadow. Line the upper lid just at the base of the lashes, extending the line upward as the continuation of the last lash. Use lots of mascara all around the eye.
- ~ Narrow Lidded Eyes~ Use two deep-toned pencils and a shadow, all in the same color family, to create a crease. Begin with the lighter pencil, drawing a new crease line from the top of the lid across the eye down to the corners of the lashes. Smudge with a cotton swab. Go over the same line with shadow to blend. Use the darker pencil to draw a line along the base of the lashes, bringing it up and out at the corners to the new crease line. Continue the shadow across the lid.
- ~ Too Far Apart Eyes~ Accentuate the inner corner of the eye with darker colors toward the bridge of the nose; use lighter colors at the outer corners. Apply shadow right next to the nose, then fill in the wedge from eye to brow. Reverse the mascara technique for eyes that are close set; concentrate the third and fourth layers on the inside-to-middle lashes. Bring your eyebrows closer to the nose bone.
- ~ Close Set Eyes~ Put the accent on the outside corners of the eye. That’s where the color should be the darkest, the lashes should be the longest, and the lines should be the most obvious. But don’t forget to blend it- lightly- to the inner corner area. It’s too obvious of the color doesn’t continue. The first two layers of mascara should be swept across all lashes; the last two layers should cover the outer lashes only. Create the illusion of wider-spaced eyes by carefully tweezing the eyebrows. Remove a triangle just at the nose bone.
- ~ Bulging Eyes~ Cover the upper lid with a dark shadow (smoky gray or brown), extending it above the natural crease. Rim the lower lashes with a line just inside the eye. Make your mascara more prominent on the middle lashes, upper and lower. Use highlight shadow only under brow bone area. The trick is to make the eye recede. Add the attraction of color just beneath the lower lashes.
Hope this helps y’all some!! xoxo
See y’all next week with more Corrective Techniques!
Next Tuesday will be on the Forehead and Jawline so make sure to look out for it!!!